complete by inserting needle into same sp where yarn was brought up and pull thru.Insert needle under the 2 lps of the stitch just made – NOT AT ALL in any part of the stockinette stitch underneath,pull thru, then.NOW here is where things will be different: To work a vertical column of stitches: Next, under this st, insert needle up through the bottom of the next stitch (again, same as for the regular duplicate st).Insert yarn needle into the first st (same step as for the first stitch of a regular duplicate st).
#Knitting duplicate stitch how to
How to Work the Duplicate Stitch Chain Gangīeginning at the top of a column of stitches upon which stitches are to be worked: In a completed piece, when the fabric is stretched, the columns are easily seen, creating another design element, but bounce back when not being stretched, as shown. They can be worked as rows left to right or right to left, or vertically, BUT ROWS OR SINGLE COLUMNS ARE ALWAYS WORKED TOP TO BOTTOM STITCH BY STITCH. Stitches are worked from the TOP of the fabric to the bottom. The st is not flat against it as it would be in a regular duplicate st. The column of ganged sts lay atop the stockinette sts underneath it (as shown at right). The stitches produced using this method result in independent ‘columns’ of stitches which sit ON TOP of stockinette stitches (see above two photos). I find that this ‘ganging’ produces very good and consistent results, especially for large areas of stockinette st I need to work. These photos show the duplicate stitch chain ganging worked on red stockinette st knitting. Creating each ‘perfect’ duplicate stitch takes extreme consistency and exact tension to correctly duplicate the stitch being worked. As nice as the duplicate stitch is, it can sometimes be challenging to produce good looking, best possible results. The duplicate stitch is a wonderful design element. To learn more about Susan and her work, visit her designer profile page. On the right side the weaving is somewhat visible, but this would not be as much of an issue when you are using the same yarn you knit with.Today’s post is a guest post written by knitting and crochet designer Susan Kerin. The tension of the fabrics secures the yarn tail very tightly. Then, you weave back through the skipped bumps. However, instead of going under every bump, you alternate. Like the zig-zag, you weave your yarn diagonally under the "bumps". This method is very secure, but it is a little more bulky and noticeable than the other two methods. I have framed the zig-zag with my fingers and you can see the contrasting yarn barely shows.
#Knitting duplicate stitch series
This time I carefully wove my yarn under a series of diagonal "bumps". The Zig-Zag is usually my favorite method for weaving in loose ends because it is very inconspicuous and does not add as much bulk as the duplicate stitch. Even though I used a contrasting yarn color, you can hardly see the duplicated stitches on the right side of my sample. For demonstration purposes I knit one row of my white swatch in a green so you can easily follow the path I duplicated in orange. The idea of the duplicate stitch is to copy or trace the path of one row of stitches, on the wrong side of your knitting, as you weave in the end of the yarn, hence the name.įor demonstration purposes I knit one row of my white swatch in a green so you can easily see the path I duplicated in orange. Some experienced knitters will tell you that using the duplicate stitch is the proper way to weave in the ends. I knit up a little stockinette swatch to demonstrate three different ways to weave in your yarn tails - the duplicate stitch method, a zig-zag method and a double diagonal method. For items like hats, scarves, blankets and socks, it can be a little trickier. When you are knitting a pieced garment, like a sweater, it's not unusual to weave the loose ends into a seam.
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